The life of the world famous Normal Hartnell, who was born in Honiton.
On June 12, 1901 the sleepy Devon Town of Honiton welcomed the birth of a baby boy , one Norman Hartnell, who had a great future in fashion design ahead of him. Norman was born at Roebuck Farm.
Norman left the privilege of Magdalen College, Cambridge after just 2 years; It wasn’t for him and he wanted a career in fashion. He had spent his time designing the theatre costumes for College Theatre productions and then fashion sketches, rather than studying.
And so Norman opened a dressmaking business in 1923 , in the attic of No 10, Bruton Street in London , with the help of his father and sister Phyliss
He led a colourful, and busy life, until his untimely death from a heart attack at the age of 78 in King Edward Hospital, Windsor
Sir Norman had great influence on 1950s style, along with fellow dressmaker Hardy Amies, making custom British couturier designs, to rival clothes by designers like Christian Dior in Paris.
The tone of Sir Norman’s specialities were not outrageous, like many French designers – think sensible suits and elegant ball gowns, suitable for Royalty. But there was great embellishment on his gowns, and the Couturier became known as the ‘king of bling’ .
He found himself engaged to make clothes for both Queen Elizabeth and the Queen Mother, for debutantes and stars like Marlene Dietrich.
Sir Norman’s iconic creations, for which he will always stand out, are designing the wedding dress for Queen Elizabeth II , then Princess Elizabeth of course. Her marriage was in 1947. And in 1953 he designed the gown for Elizabeth’s Coronation.
Princess Elizabeth’s wedding dress featured a sweetheart neckline, and elaborate full skirt. The dress was covered in pearl embroidery, painstakingly embroidered by a team of 35 sewers.
The connection with Queen Elizabeth and Sir Norman’s designs continued and for many years he designed clothes for Her Majesty for her many Royal Tours, including the collection for the North American and Californian tour in 1939 and he gained the Royal Warrant in 1957
This wasn’t without design constraint – Norman mused that the Queen couldn’t wear skirts too tight to restrict exiting a limo , or too floaty. And hats had to show Her Majesty’s face and not be too big to blow away. And design choices were always deliberately low key. If the Queen accepted the style, then it was OK .
Sir Norman’s evening gowns were similarly elegant and “beautiful”. He was heard to lament that these days the dresses would be considered “rather corny”
In the spirit of Make Do and Mend, Princess Beatrice married in one of the late Queen’s Hartnell evening dress.
Sir Norman had a commercial head as well and his business took the direction of ready-to-wear collections . He produced practical clothing in British wool fabrics and his designs were mass produced post war in the Government’s utility campaign .
At the pinnacle of his career, Sir Norman was knighted in the New Years Honours in 1977
He never married.